Thursday, January 3, 2008

Captain'sView - George Town and Long Island

We got our weather window and sailed to Long Island approximately 25 miles east of George Town. It was deep water sailing, so we used the opportunity to test out the swing keel. It was an amazing difference in performance and comfort. The keel kept the boat from rolling despite the sideways waves. Thank you Garry Fulmer!

On our last trip five years ago, we were not big fans of George Town. This go around we were optimistic that it would be better. Anchoring off of Volley Ball Beach, we could dinghy to the Chat and Chill Bar and Grill. As it turns out, we’re still not big fans of George Town; too many boats, too many people. The attitude of the boaters and locals is that of big city not a friendly small town, customary at most other places we have visited.

Long Island is a unique island with its caves, blue holes, and white cliffs. The people are very different here as well, very friendly. Andrew and I were walking down the street from the ocean side beaches back to the bay side where we had anchored Adamo in Thompson Bay. A car slowed down next to us as we carried a super sized coconut and a buoy we had found on the beach. The lady in the car told us that the “door open” sign was illuminated on her dash board, and would we mind closing the back door for her to see if that would alleviate the problem. The back seat was full of wrapped Christmas presents. I suspect one of them was the culprit in keeping the door ajar. I nudged the door with my hip and heard the “click” sound. No sooner was I done, when she informed me the problem was solved. She then offered us ride if we needed one. With the presents in the back seat, Andrew and I would have to share the front seat of her sub-compact. “Thank you ma’am, but our dinghy is just ahead”. With that she wished us a good afternoon and drove off. Andrew and I looked at each other shrugged our shoulders and keep walking.

The following day, we set out on a family excursion to one of the cave systems. We saw a cave entrance from the water and anchored the dinghy along the jagged rocks. After crouching through small caves we were convinced that this could not be the caves described in the cruising guides. So we went in search of the path that leads to the cave from the main road. We climbed through sharp rocky terrain and thick under brush. When we finally made it to the government docks, we headed north in search of the path. No path was to be found. Doug and Sue decided to head back to the dock. Andrew, Phil and I headed down someone’s driveway to get back to the water to retrieve the dinghy. As we were making our way through the outer fringes of the yard, we heard a dog barking. Phillip said:”Oh shit!” (My thoughts exactly). We froze and a yellow lab came running at us. He was barking and happy to see us. The owner, however, was a little bit more leery. We explained the situation and introduced ourselves to him. Chris and his wife Jean Pierce have lived on the island since 2002, having moved from Napa Valley. Jean was a writer for Rand McNally and various dive magazines and diving guides. In any case, they pointed us to the cave entrance. They have even carved a stone sign to mark the entrance from their property.

We picked up Doug and Sue and return to explore the 1700 foot long cave. Sue did not enjoy it as much as the boys did. Perhaps it was the hundreds of bats that fluttered around your ears as you walked through. Maybe it was the fact that we were walking through “guano” (bat shit). Or possibly, it was the fact that when bats fly, they drop their guano! Or maybe it was simply the smell. (See picture of Phil with bat flying on his right)



We rented a car one day and drove to Dean’s blue hole. It is a 630 foot deep hole, sheltered by a cliff. The boys and I took turns jumping from the cliff into the water. Andrews last jump did not go as planned. He landed in a seated position, rather than straight up and down. Per his calculations he was going 64 mph when he hit the water, which would explain why his backside looks some what like a baboon today. He’s a young strapping lad however, so I expect a quick recovery.

At the North end of Long Island is a marina and resort, Stella Maris. This is the first time since we left the US that we have gone into port to dock up. What a treat it is to have constant power and water, and not have to worry about whether the anchor is dragging. The resort spans the width of the island from ocean to bank side. Sue and I enjoyed the beach side hammocks and a beer or two.

Posting to the blog has become more difficult, because it’s becoming harder to find broad band internet service. But keep checking, we’ll be updating less often, but with more stories.