Anyone who has sailed down the island chain from the Bahamas to Puerto Rico has had to cross the dreaded Mona Passage. On our way heading South, we had a beautiful, smooth crossing. Perhaps too smooth, because we though “what’s the big deal?”
As we prepped to cross the passage on our way heading North, we were a little nonchalant about it all. We had a good weather window with the waves forecast to be 3 to 4 feet with 10 to 12 knots of wind. The day started out beautifully. The water was calm as we departed Boqueron. We fully expected another easy passage. Because the wind was non-existent at 6:00 a.m. we motored North up the coast of Western Puerto Rico and headed for Isla Desecheo, a small island about 10 miles off the coast. About 5 miles out the waves started coming from all directions with no warning. We were motoring at an angle to the waves that had the Adamo rolling from gunwale to gunwale. It was most uncomfortable. We tried changing headings, putting up the headsail and dropping the swing keel to no avail. About and hour later things settle down. Then without warning again, it stirred up. This process of letting up and then getting rolly again kept up for 28 hours as we motored the entire way due to insufficient wind. Things finally settled down once we rounded the Northeast coast of the Dominican Republic. Our 277 mile passage left us exhausted.
As we prepped to cross the passage on our way heading North, we were a little nonchalant about it all. We had a good weather window with the waves forecast to be 3 to 4 feet with 10 to 12 knots of wind. The day started out beautifully. The water was calm as we departed Boqueron. We fully expected another easy passage. Because the wind was non-existent at 6:00 a.m. we motored North up the coast of Western Puerto Rico and headed for Isla Desecheo, a small island about 10 miles off the coast. About 5 miles out the waves started coming from all directions with no warning. We were motoring at an angle to the waves that had the Adamo rolling from gunwale to gunwale. It was most uncomfortable. We tried changing headings, putting up the headsail and dropping the swing keel to no avail. About and hour later things settle down. Then without warning again, it stirred up. This process of letting up and then getting rolly again kept up for 28 hours as we motored the entire way due to insufficient wind. Things finally settled down once we rounded the Northeast coast of the Dominican Republic. Our 277 mile passage left us exhausted.
When you are in the middle of it, you think this is horrible. Particularly, since you just don’t know how long it is going to last. Things in the cabin start falling even though you thought you packed them away safely. Sleeping is nearly out of the question because your body keeps trying to hold even if you’re in the middle of your reverie. Sue woke up with a sore back from being tense all night long, fighting the rolling (not that she actually got any real sleep). I can’t even begin to imagine how ugly that passage can get when the wind is really blowing.
Here are some shots we got when things were calm. There were many ships in the passage as well as a pod of whales.
The crew enjoying a calm moment at sunset.
The north coast of the DR can be tough cruising but is beautiful with its sea side plateaus.
We had planned to motor or sail directly to the Bahamas, but because of the conditions during our crossing, we burned more fuel than expected. So now the plan is to motor sail along the coast of the Dominican Republic and pull in to an anchorage in the evening. We’ll work our way West until the wind picks up then we’ll sail to the Bahamas. At that point is should be a simple overnighter.
